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Posted by / 03-Oct-2020 20:49

Bangles aims to serve an Indian audience, but also attract mainstream American diners, with a little upscale polish, plus some fusion touches. A recent visit set our mouths aflicker with classic takes on Chettinad curries, Hyderabadi biryani, luscious prawns in coconut masala gravy, lamb pepper fry and an outstanding curry leaf fried chicken.

We also loved modern takes like the curry leaf corn soup, lotus root scallops, and a dahi vada starter whose yogurt-glazed lentil fritters are striped with a web of chutneys.

Outgoing service and a surprisingly rousing series of desserts — a honey pie, a baked Alaska s’mores, and a blueberry upsidedown cake — saved the evening.

This 18th-century stone house in historic Coventryville is both the residence of Martin and Janet Gagné and their 24-seat restaurant, where three nights a week they serve rustic, French-tasting meals.

The multicourse menus (and smaller Thursday suppers) are conceived spontaneously by the chef each week, so while diners must plan well in advance, they also need to be flexible. ) Highlights from my visits included big tureens of braised chicken with morels and black trumpet mushrooms, platters of snowy halibut baked in a crust of fines-herbs, a flaky leek-and-goat-cheese tart, big fresh salads studded with chunks of house-cured lardons, a warm apricot tart for dessert, and all the gougères I could get my hands on. But the warm, family-style hospitality and quirky setup make for one of the most personal dinners — well worth the adventure to this bucolic locale.

And amazingly, you still need to plan a year in advance to book dinner at the 12-seat country table in the charming market dining room, and a few months out for the smaller butcher block square in the fluorescent-lit kitchen (my preferred choice.) But there’s good reason for the fuss.

The 10-course seasonal tasting dinners orchestrated by Aimee Olexy and her chefs are delivered with such seamless BYOB grace by her service staff that dinner here remains one of the region’s magical four-bell dining experiences.

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